Stars Gazing aboard Queen of Galapagos

In a peaceful anchorage, waiting for the sun to set

The loungers have been taken to the upper deck, the clear night sky is proving to be an attraction to those on board. It is not what you think; JC is going to give a lecture on the stars.

The upper most deck of Queen of Galapagos makes the perfect place from where to view heavenly bodies especially on such a balmy night. There is of course no air pollution in the Galapagos and very little in the way of light pollution save for the deck lights of the yachts anchored nearby.

JC, complete with his laser pointer, starts pointing into the sky outlining Orion, his club and the belt pointing to Sirius, the brightest star in the sky. He explains the Greek mythology and tells the stories that man has built around the constellations. He points out the two famous stars in that constellation: the first and brightest is Rigel at his foot; the other is Betelgeuse on his opposite shoulder distinctive because of the yellowish red colour, the sign of a dying star.

The Southern Cross and what is called the false cross because it is often confused with the real thing, are both visible as are the heavenly twins, Castor and Pollux. In the north the most familiar constellation is Ursa Major often called the Big Dipper or the Plough, which provides a useful pointer to Polaris or the Pole Star. But at this latitude it lies unseen by us on the horizon.

It is a well-presented lesson and we turn in that night replete with good food company and a feeling of having achieved a great deal in what was a perfect day.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

The Barren Volcanic Galapagos Island of Bartolomé

While we are eating lunch Queen of Galapagos has moved from North Seymour to Bartolomé Island. To get there she sailed between the islands of Daphne Minor and Daphne Major, the second of which has been made famous by the publication of Beak of the Finch by Jonathan Weiner. This book tells the fascinating story of how and why an English couple, Peter and Rosemary, Grant have been regularly returning for 25 years to this tiny island. They have been researching the many different species of the famous Darwin’s finches to be found here.

We reach Bartolomé Island at around 3pm and shortly after the anchor has fallen into the water the yacht’s efficient crew have launched the pangas (tenders to you and I!).

This island is possibly the most photographed landscape in the whole of the Galapagos and it is easy to see why. It rises starkly from the ocean, a barren volcanic upthrusting onto which very little in the way of vegetation has settled.

The island maybe barren but the waters around it are teaming with sea life and we are quickly rewarded when we spotted our first of the Galapagos Penguin, the smallest penguin in the world. It is bizarre that here on the Equator is a species of the flightless bird whose usual habitat is Antarctica.

We land on the rocks and begin our trek up to the island’s peak atop of which is a small lighthouse.

JC still fastidiously dressed in freshly pressed shorts, neatly trimmed beard, gold rimmed aviator sunglasses and the ubiquitous Panama hat is in his element. What he does not know about volcanic eruptions and the complex landscape it creates is simply not worth knowing.

He shows us Spatter Cones where lava leftovers have been thrown into the air, cooling as they fall to the ground. He points out Tuff Cones created when copious quantities of ash as opposed to lava are deposited by eruptions. He explains the way lava falls down the mountainside leaving a trail of that looks like the mountain has been smeared in liquid caramel.

On the moon like landscape one plant that is serious about survival is the Lava Cactus. This plant produces prickly green tubes which turn first a golden yellow then brown and finally grey before they drop off to create fertiliser for the new life. Another hardy plant, this time must smaller and one that flowers is the Galapagos Petunia.

Reaching the top, the view is stunning, far below us, Queen of Galapagos lies quietly at anchor in the bay as the sun sets behind her. We all scamper down the mountainside, someone has mentioned the chance of a cool beer back on board and with this thought in mind we make our way back down the arid slopes.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Frigate Birds and Blue Footed Boobies

Look at my Feet!

North Seymour Island is home to a wide variety of wildlife but it is the birds that are special on our visit.

Our favourite is the Blue Footed Boobie. They are so comical and we are entranced as we watch one male put on a wonderful display as he attempts to attract a watching female. He is clearly proud of his huge, brightly blue coloured webbed feet and he seems to be oblivious to the fact that they are not unique as the female is wearing similar coloured footwear.

He uses his feet to try to attract her attention, raising first one then the other, high into the air in a matching on the spot exercise, occasionally spreading his wings and throwing back his head to emit a shrill whistle. We can easily understand how this stupid looking bird got his name.

There are two species of Frigate birds in the Galapagos: the Frigate Bird Minor whose origin was Asia and the Frigate Bird Magnificent hailing originally from the Caribbean Islands. While there are differences that are easy to spot when pointed out, they are for the most part very similar and both are here on North Seymour.

It is breeding season and in the trees the males are puffing up their gular sacks in the hope that the female will notice their bright red throats. The females fly in to inspect the nesting spot the male has chosen. If the nest has what the female considers "good potential" she will stay, if not the male must stay inflated until he finds a lady who is impressed.

Lightweight and aerodynamically shaped, these birds have wingspan of up to 250 centimetres. They are so agile in the air with their magnificent scissor shaped tail but they are hopeless on the ground and landing can make very amusing watching.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Swallow Tail Gulls, Marine Iguanas and Sea Lions

North Seymour Island is home to a wide variety of wildlife.

We leave Queen of Galapagos using one of the yachts powerful tenders, to walk on Seymour Island. North of the larger Baltra, it is an uplifted island, meaning that volcanic action has pushed it above the surface of the sea.

Once ashore, right by our landing spot, we watch enchanted, a male and female Swallow Tail Gull perform a courtship ritual right in front of us. Like almost all the birds and mammals we see here in the Galapagos they seem oblivious to their human watchers.

Here, just a couple of feet away, the male has invited the female to partake in a meal by regurgitating one that he prepared earlier, feeding her from his beak. Clearly birds are not like us! She is not put off and they huddle together. We decide to give them a little privacy and move off.

Around us, so close we could touch them (but we never do), are sea lions of every size. Mothers with pups at their breast, other pups on their own squeaking loudly in the hope that mummy won’t be gone long before she brings home a nice fish supper. It may be as long as four days before she return to feed them, but a mother’s job is never done, as it is common for feeding to continue well into adulthood.

Elsewhere on the beach are Marine Iguana by the score. They climb from the sea their strong legs propelling them across terra firma. In the ocean it is their powerful tail that they use to get to the underwater rocks. In the sea their blunt snout is used to harvest algae and sea grass and they often spend up to an hour below the surface before coming up for air.

Scuttling across the rocks, brightly coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs liven up the otherwise drab black colours. These red crabs know few predators and therefore can afford to display themselves so flamboyantly. When young however, they are prey to birds, so the juveniles are black and can hardly be seen walking across the lava rocks by the shore.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

The Charles Darwin Research Station

An enthusiastic mate for Lonesome George?

Perhaps the most famous institution in Ecuador is here in the Galapagos. It is a must see for every visitor and for those travelling aboard Queen of Galapagos it is the highlight of our first day.

The Charles Darwin Foundation was inaugurated in 1959 and five years later the first of sprawling complex of buildings was built that is now the Charles Darwin Research Station. Today it houses some 200 or so scientists from all around the world, here to study the unique environment of the Galapagos.

There is a programme for replanting indigenous plants. A building houses what looks like a garden centre with pots of indigenous plants but there are no price labels. Instead local inhabitants can take what they like, for free, to replace foreign species of plants in their gardens.

Another and perhaps more famous activity of the station is the breeding of tortoises. National Park Rangers gather up freshly laid eggs from various islands and bring them to the station. Hatching takes place in specially adapted incubators and controlled temperature ensure a higher number of females are born. Pampered for five years the babies grow rapidly and securely before being returned to live in the wild on their native islands.

One programme is devoted to the most famous tortoise of all. Lonesome George is thought to be the very last of his kind from the island of Pinta. Now he lives with two lady tortoises’ each with similar genes, though not exactly the same it is hoped to preserve something of his kind. At 90 some years of age a lot of future history is resting on the shoulders of poor old Lonesome George and we wish him well.

Giant tortoises can live up to 150 and reach around 250 kilos in weight. Size is not an indicator of age but another of the programmes at the station is the re-homing of unwanted and rescued tortoises’ and among these is Popeye a huge mammal whose shell was shot up badly by soldiers in an army base. Fierce and unfriendly at first due to his cruel life, he has recovered his equilibrium and become docile and content.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Touring the Island of Santa Cruz in the Galapagos

We meet one of the islands top guides

Juan Carlos Sosa, or JC as he prefers to be known, is one of those wonderful characters it is a delight to meet and converse with. Witty, charismatic and hugely knowledgeable about a wide variety of subjects. He is an award-winning guide with the Galapagos National Park authorities here in the Galapagos and will accompany us as we embark upon a charter aboard the 29 metre yacht Queen of the Galapagos.

First however he leads us for an afternoon tour of Santa Cruz. We set off to the Highlands to visit Los Gemelos (the Twins) a pair of almost matching pit craters sitting side by side. These volcanic craters were originally created just 1.5 million years or so ago when lava bubbled up from the earth. When that bubble burst the crust subsided back into the space left leaving the crater open to the atmosphere.

Here we met our first endemic bird, unique to these islands, the Galapagos Dove. Somewhat reluctant to fly, it prefers instead to stalk about using its distinctively red legs. Sounding the craters are fine examples of the towering Giant Daisy, whose tree like trunk supports a flower bush at the top, which plays host to many varieties of lichen and moss.

A short bus ride down a dirt track brings us to Rancho Primica. Amidst the wetlands, a wild colony of Giant Tortoise lives in their natural habitat. They love to wallow in the abundant muddy water hoping to rid themselves of troublesome parasites. These particular Tortoises are unique to Santa Cruz and they grow to a large size on the island because they have no predators.

Moving on we explore inside a lava tube. This subterranean tunnel was left behind when molten lava flowed from a crater but did so underground. They can run underground for many kilometres and over the years many have caved in leaving large ruts in the earths surface. This particular tube runs for about 250 metres, 25 metres underground.

Back in our bus we headed towards the Charles Darwin Research Station and the headquarters of the National Parks Service, the controlling body governing the activities inside the National Park.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Galapagos Beaches

Miles of deserted beach occupied only by sleeping Iguanas

A little way outside the town of Puerto Ayora a small pedestrian pathway leads into the National Park and, once clear of the registration hut, runs for 3 kilometres through woods towards one of the world’s most beautiful white sand beaches.

The Pacific swell causes waves to curl and crash onto the shore making this a great surfing spot and not a shack in sight!

Those who have carried their board on the 40-minute walk from town are rewarded with a great ride when the surf is up.

For others the beach provides an uninhabited and almost deserted walk beside the sea. Marine Iguanas move twixt surf and shore where they pile up into great heaps to bask in the sunshine. Asleep they appear lifeless, save for the occasional snort as they clear the excess salt form their bodies in a spray of brine like miniature whales spouting.

These are the only sea going lizards in the world and can only be found in these islands. If numbers here on this beach at Tortuga Bay are anything to go by they are not endangered.

Towards the end of the beach a twist of nature has allowed the sea to force its way into the island forming a beautiful and very peaceful lagoon with sandy beaches, cactus plants and plenty of pelicans. This quiet beach with its calm waters is the complete opposite to its near neighbour and proves again what a fascinating group of islands are here in the Galapagos.

We are here to voyage aboard the superyacht Queen of Galapagos as she undertakes a charter visiting just a small selection of islands. We hope to share with you some of the excitement of undertaking such a trip. Please follow our adventures and feel free to comment below.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Puerto Ayado, The Galapagos

Where the sealions come to lunch

We flew into the Galapgaos with Aerogal directly from Guayaqul in Ecuador and are on our way to join the yacht Queen of the Galapgos whose cruising area is one of the world’s most famous preserves of nature.

We landed on the small island of Baltra, just off the north coast of Santa Cruz. During the Second World War it was a US military base but now it just houses an airport. The narrow channel separating us from Santa Cruz Island (Indefatigable) is crossed by a flotilla of blunt bowed ferryboats.

We hire a taxi, a four-door pick-up truck, and drive for 45 minutes south across the island to the town of Puerto Ayaro and our hotel Solymar.

Our welcome drink on the patio overlooking the sea was interrupted by the arrival of, first, a rather large Pelican who ambled over towards us as if in a greeting. He posed for photographs and then waddled off on his large webbed feet across to where an American family were having a drink. There sleeping like a Labrador dog at his master’s feet lay a sealion basking in the sun, eyes closed and gently snoring. The camera click, and she opened an eye and we will swear we heard her say: “Do you mind? I am sleeping!”

The sealion was tagged with the number 659 and it was obvious that she had chosen the hotel patio because of the shade the covered veranda offered from the midday sun. What was amazing however was that she co-existed with man without interaction. She was not begging for food nor was she being fed!

We lunched at The Rock were we ate fresh tuna cooked to perfection washed down with a bottle of excellent local beer.

Queen of Galapagos is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Farewell Atmosphere, Goodbye Chile

The hardest word to use aboard a luxury charter yacht is goodbye

There comes a time on every superyacht charter when we have to use the G word. It is always a sad occasion especially when, as been aboard Atmosphere, we have been looked after so very well. The excitement of being on board a discovery yacht as she explores unfamiliar waters is one of the best possible ways of enjoying luxury yacht charter and having Chile as the destination has been the icing on the cake.

Yes we have had fun, every day has been exciting as we have adventured through just small part of the waters that keep this country’s coastline wet.

The yacht is by nature of where she operates and what she does, somewhat different from the three decked white yachts that lurk off Saint Tropez during the summer and St Barths during the winter. She is different in construction and in areas does not display what some would call a superyacht finish but that, if anything, is an added attraction to what it is she offers to the discerning charter guest.

Cabins with their ensuite bathrooms on board are comfortable and kept spotless by the crew. The main saloon, dinning room and sociable bar area work together in complete unison on one single deck. Sensible amenities include a wet room where boots and outdoor wear can be stored, while luxury facilities include on deck spa pools and a sauna room.

The Captain and his crew run a tight ship that is clean and tidy at all times but as is so often the case aboard charter yachts it is the interior crew who make life onboard so pleasing. Here aboard Atmosphere that rule remains unbroken with chefs in the galley producing an edible masterpiece for each and every meal. Service is exquisite, both at the bar, at table and in keeping the cabins immaculate.

Would we recommend this yacht? Very defiantly yes, she is the perfect antidote to the luxury charter yacht on the milk run and is one that is sure to get the adrenaline really pumping. Go on contact Robert Shepherd at Edmiston and tell him that Frances and Michael Howorth suggested you do so. We are quite certain you will enjoy it.

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

The Tic Toc Islands

Whale Watching in Chile’s Bay of Tic Toc

We are not hiking today, instead we plan a day of on-water exploration using Atmosphere as our base. We launch the big Zodiac Hurricane 920 RIB and get ready to set off for a day of excitement afloat in which we plan to circumnavigate the uninhabited islands in the bay of Tic Toc.

But, as so often happens when plans are made, something happens that brings about a change of mind. It is this ability to so quickly alter plans that sets apart luxury yacht charter from those more formalised itineraries of mini cruise liner.

Francisco our helicopter pilot was returning to the yacht having dropped off Brent and Sally for a full day of trout fishing on a mountain-top lake at Miragualay when, as he approached the yacht, he saw whales in the channel outside our sheltered bay. Acting as our eye in the sky, he quickly noted their position some 3 miles north west of the island of Horadada reporting the fact to officers on the bridge of the yacht who plotted the latitude and longitude onto the navigation chart. The VHF radio on the RIB crackled into life as we heard Atmosphere calling us to pass the information.

With Pablo at the helm of the powerful RIB we abandoned our sightseeing expedition and shot across the waves to the coordinates cameras at the ready. We were not disappointed, and saw the plumes of the whales venting when we were some three miles off.

Slowing down so as not to frighten them we approached with caution. As we did so and came closer, we were able to see them jumping clear out of the water, barrel rolling so as to show us their white bellies and giving us the positive identification that we have found a pod of Orcas or Killer Whales.

We counted nine or so including a mother and calf and a very much larger, dominant male. They showed little fear and seemed to assume the dark grey and black RIB was a distant cousin and came in for a closer look. They performed their routines in front of us, first to port then to starboard blowing plumes of air and seawater from their blowholes each time they surfaced.

Frequently they surfaced so close to the side of the boat as to be inside touching distance. On several occasions they ploughed through the water heading straight for the side of our boat only to dive below the boat and appear on the other side, an action that pt hearts into mouths as we pondered what would happen if the manoeuvre were to go pear shaped.

The convoy comprising of boat and whales moved westwards towards a very small out crop of rocks that were frequently awash as the Pacific swell broke over them. It was as we studied the rocks that we suddenly realised why it was the whales were hanging around in the vicinity. There, clinging perilously to the rocks, were a female and couple of young sea lions who, to the Orcas looked somewhat appetising.

We watched as the sea swept the baby sea lions from their rocky perch, we felt their mothers panic as the babies scrambled to regain their hard ground. Adept and agile in the water they maybe when they are seeking their own prey, these sea lions, on this occasion, clearly felt that safety was rock shaped.

We leave you to make up your own ending to the story giving you the choice between happy and otherwise. Safe to say that eventually, having entertained us for nearly two hours, the whales made one last spectacular series of jumps attempting to touch the sky and then dived deep into the ocean leaving us to turn the RIB around and head back towards the yacht for our own lunch.

Walking in the Bonsai Forest in Chile

On the side of the volcano it pays to be small

Overnight Atmosphere has moved around 22 miles from Piti Palena to the Bay of Tictoc into which the Tictoc River flows. Here she anchored off Punta Escondido deep inside Bahia de Pescadores. We wake from our sleep surrounded by seabirds feeding from the fish rich waters while sea lions swim lazily around. Two of our group chose to fish and are flown by helicopter to a river where brown trout are said to run wall to wall and we wait until the machine returns at 9am before we set off on what will be a daylong hike across the volcano at Paramo.

Today we are joined by Osvaldo the yachts expedition manager who tells us we are pioneering a brand new never been trekked part of the mountain and that it is highly likely that no man has never walked at this sport before.

We land on a plateau at 2,800 feet alighting onto a soft, tundra like carpet of moss that feels as if you are walking across a soft deep pile woollen carpet.

It is a land where it pays to bring along a loop that very small magnifying glass so beloved by diamond dealers. Get down on your knees and use the loop to look at the tiny flowers, plants and grasses and immediately, it is as if you have entered a different world. Tiny plants adopt perfect geometric shapes and among then are minute carnivorous plants that use a sweet sticky secretion to trap micro sized insects into its gaping mouth were it is digested.

These mountaintops are normally subject to fierce winds that sweep across this exposed mountainside ripping away anything large. It is for this reason that trees and plants in the area have realised that it is futile to develop beyond a size that is absolutely necessary for survival. This means trees have evolved and adopted the appearance of well-cultivated Bonsai trees from Japan.

Gnarled trunks, substantial root systems and tiny leaves on perfectly formed miniature branches are everywhere and with so many trees, fighting for the same space the area is reminiscent of a trees surrounding a Lilliput village with its own Bonsai Forest if such a thing were to exist.

We split into two groups of three and set off on our climb. We have chosen the lower but longer route leaving Margot, Osvaldo and Ignacio to conquer new heights as the attempted to reach the snow line. Together with Pablo we have chosen the longer more picturesque and truthfully less strenuous version in which we have more time to take pictures using macro lenses to capture the tiny pants and trees. We even have time to pose for silly pictures of us standing beside miniature trees in which we look like Gulliver on his travels.

We camp in between two pristine lakes at 2500 feet and eat our picnic lunch of steak sandwiches made from Wagu beef, which despite their perilous journey inside our back packs taste so good when washed down with water drawn from the water fall on the river that feeds the lakes. The sun is hot, the air so clean it actually smells strangely and because this is South America and it is the custom to do so, we take a short siesta. It seemed rude not too!

Later we trekked across a ridge or three and found a smaller lake inhabited by dragonfly who were clearly in the throws of courtship routines. The males flitted from bank to bank deftly landing on and taking off the water in front of the watching females, each male trying to out perform is opposition. In the same pond we spot tadpole and finally get our first sighting of the very rare Patagonian frog a rather small ochre and burned amber amphibian.

We have had a wonderful day and as we wait at 2000 feet for our pick up we have proved that there are two ways to trek in an untouched by human country. The hard way is to walk all the way up and all the way down. The alternative is the Atmosphere way. Hitch a ride on a helicopter, it’s the only way to travel here in Patagonia.

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Small Boats at Peti Palena, Chile

Was it Mr Toad, in Wind and Willows who said, “There is nothing quite like messing about in boats on the river”? Here in a quite and sheltered part of the Palena River is a stretch of water quite literally littered with islands just waiting to be messed with and the abundance of kayaks carried by Atmosphere are the very best of boats to go exploring in.

We have again chosen a two man kayak as our mode of transport and set off with Ignacio as our guide and teacher and we hop from island to island closely watching the Rock Cormorants that either fishing or standing in the sun with their wings outstretched drying off. We beach our craft on a sandy island and explore the surroundings and then take to the water again and visit somewhere fresh.

Inside one pretty cove we encounter Jaimie a local fisherman who is cultivating mussels to sell at market.

Learning we are from the big yacht with the bright red helicopter Jaimie makes us welcome and invites us into his home built entirely using his own hands and local woods. He had fashioned the hanging shingles tile by tile hacking each one using his machete and the house is where he lives during the summer months. Inside a wood-burning stove supplies the heat and means of cooking his meals.

The kettle is on and he offers to take yerba maté with us which given the protocols involved is rather like being invited to take part in a Japanese tea ceremony. Boiling hot water is poured onto the green grass like leaves and stems which have been shredded to become powder like and taking care not to stir the mixture, it is passed around from person to person who each sip the mixture and pass it on. It is important to drink most of it and hand it back to the server who fills it with more hot water and hands it to the next person. It is really important not say thank you, to do so suggests that you do not want any more and can be taken to mean you do not like the way the maker has made the brew. When everyone has taken mate, the server drinks his own portion and the ceremony is complete.

Bidding farewell to Jaimie, we take to our kayaks and begin the long paddle back toAtmosphere. As we approach the helicopter flies in with the fishermen from Trebol its rotors clattering as it drops down onto the helideck.

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Glaciers and Swimming with Icebergs at 3000 feet

Early helicopter flights ferry those seeking to catch yet more trout off to the lakes of Trebol. Two of our group leave the yacht as soon as dawn breaks and the helicopter returns to take a second group of four out to a lake at Rodriguez where they have chosen to camp overnight in what can only be called an attempt at male bonding and recreating days of when they were all Boy Scouts.

We use the bright red wasp-like machine lifting of the helideck on the stern of Atmosphere at a much more civilised 0900 and head off over the low lying River Palena where we had earlier dropped anchor after a short southward journey of just 18 nautical miles.

Our pilot flies us off across the muddy estuary and heads for the hills. Ahead of us is the Volcano of Melimoyu with its snow-capped peak. Far below us, the clouds clump together like soft cotton wool to create a white fleecy blanket. Wearing headphones into which Francisco pipes the contents of his iPod we cannot hear the cameras clicking, both of the guides and Frances are busy shooting the scenery.

In the days of film there would have been many changes of film cassette during this flight. The Bell 407 can take off and land at altitudes of up to 12,000 feet and can when flying reach an altitude of 22,000 feet so we are well within its limits as we skim across the peaks.

We are dropped off onto a natural landing pad of flat ground right at the foot of a Glacier some 2,200 feet above sea level. This is only the fourth occasion that a helicopter from Atmosphere has landed here and the area is so remote it is highly unlikely that any others have ever done so and standing upright once the aircraft has taken off and left us we get a real feeling of being a pioneer.

There is a deep ravine on one side of us gouged out of the earth by centuries of ice erosion. On the other side of over valley is a high cliff that is heavily forested. In the middle however is the formidable glacier that is so spectacular that you immediately begin to winder where Big Foot is or at the very least, a polar bear!

The icy face of the glacier, thousands of years old, blue with age is riddled with caves caused by the erosion at the point where the face meets the lagoon. Around us the ice cracks like thunder, chunks of white rock fall into the lagoon and shuttle off to join the other mini icebergs that litter the surface.

Despite water temperatures well below freezing the call of he water and the extreme sense of adventure is too much for Ignacio one of our guides who strips off and jumps in using icebergs like a surfer uses boards.

We explore our surroundings and learn from our guides all about the Nalcas, which we are told, are the sacred plant of the Mapuche the tribe of indigenous Indians who originally inhabited the central and southern parts of Chile. Pablo explains how they can be used as a foodstuff and building material.

The sun is up, layers of clothes worn just in case it was cold and windy up here have been discarded and the only fly in the ointment so to speak is the dreaded Tabano horse fly, seemingly the size of a fight aircraft which buzz around our ears incessantly pausing only to sink its long drill like stalk into your skin as they try to suck up your blood.

We discard the contents of our bottles of so called natural water and reuse them filling with the real thing from a bubbling stream. Leave them on the ice for a few minutes and low and behold Mother Nature has looked after us yet again.

How Not to Watch Whales in Chile

We get in close to Dolphins and Sealions but the Whales stay away

The Gulf of Corcovado is a wide stretch of Pacific between mainland Chile and Chiloe one of the county’s largest offshore islands and one made famous by the fifteen different species of exotic potatoes it exports around the world. This Gulf is the acknowledged breeding ground of many whale types including Hump Back, Killer, Sperm, and the Blue Pigmy, which despite its diminutive name is hardly small with the word pigmy describing the animal’s dorsal fin.

The area is also home to White Shark, Sea Lion and the Peals Dolphin a white-bellied smaller cousin of the Bottlenose and is endemic to this part of the South American coast. Normally an ocean dwelling fish preferring the deeper off shore waters, this part of Chile seems to attract the Peals close inshore.

Atmosphere carries a huge adventure RIB built by Zodiac packing twin 250hp Yamaha outboards and equipped with shock absorbing seats and a enough navigation equipment to rival the average super yacht. This ocean going craft is our chosen means of transport to explore the Gulf and chance a brief encounter with the whales.

We left the security of our mother ship and were, within minutes, surrounded by a pod of Peals dolphin who wanted to play. Maintaining a speed of around seven knots this playful creatures swooped in and out of our bow wave leaping into the air and smacking down onto the water with a loud crack as it to say “come on then lets see you do that!” When they bore of us they slope off to feed somewhere and we put on the power and head for a point mid channel some 10 miles off the shore. With

Pablo at the helm and the throttles pushed well forward, this did not take long at speeds of over 40 knots. We cut the engines and deployed the RIB’s on board hydrophones and set back to wait the arrival of the massive marine mammals, while at the same time, keeping our yes well peeled for the spouting of water or the breaching of a tail fin.

Sadly today was not going to be the day we see whales and after futilely wallowing in the Pacific swell for an hour or so we decide to move on in search of other animals. We are not disappointed.

The rare red footed cormorant is shopping for fish in great numbers and we see the caves in which they live. The Chilean Navy has blown many of these caves up on this coast to prevent smuggling and the illegal growing of molluscs and this has had a dramatic adverse effect on the number of these birds that survive in the wild. The more common rock cormorant is not quite so fussy and we see them in great numbers as well.

High above the rocks red headed turkey vultures swoop and dive and are a clear indicator that sea lion are close by and sure enough as we close the shore we see colonies of them basking in the sun. Huge fat males growl at each other protecting their territory and slim-line mother versions look after the young nearby.

We are careful not to spook them. In the past it has been noticed that in their haste to get into the water and become instantly more agile, the large males have lumbered over the innocent babies squashing them flat. They get into the water for us in an organised fashion and duck and weave in the pacific swell and their antic more than make up for the fact that we have failed to find the whales.

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Superyacht in Explosive Territory

Atmosphere sails silently through the night. Navigating in such sheltered waters she has little need for her Quantum Zero Speed stabilisers with which she is fitted. Smooth seas and roll free anchorages each night seem to be the success of this exciting voyage along the Patagonian coast of Chile.

We have arrived in Auchemo an anchorage in the shadow of the volcano Chaiten, which last erupted on 1st May 2008 when, what everyone thought, was just a hillside, exploded spewing out ash onto the nearby town and causing over 2000 people to flee their township and relocate the homes when the river began to flood.

Volcanoes dominate the activities today. The fishermen among our group are off to fish in lakes high in the volcanic areas of Cesar and Quitachurrines. The helicopter makes two sorties to get them and their gear into the area they are going to fish. They are gone all day and with them goes their lunch, gas stoves and even the tables from which they eat it under specially carried tents. At each of the fishing locations the yacht has stashed boats that are used for the activities.

We, on the other hand, are to fly into the crater of the Volcano at Corcovado, which has not erupted inside the last two hundred years. Francisco packs us into his aircraft and takes off, whisking us across terrain that is so wild and majestically bleak. We skirt snow-capped peaks flying so close you swear the rotors are going to clip the rock. High above the clouds we fly to the very top of the Corcovado Volcano and then swoop down into the plateau at 3000 ft from where we will trek down to the Corcovado Lake, which fills what was a former crater.

Once the helicopter leaves us at the top of the mountain the complete silence is eerie broken only by the sound of our own breathing. Standing there on the rocks it is hard to fully comprehend the fact that we are probably the first humans to be standing on that exact spot and as we set off it was almost conceivable that we could hear the voice of Captain James T Kirk use that split infinitive from the Star Trek TV series to boldly go where no man has gone before.

Now all we have to do is descend to our own pick up point some 700 feet below us on the shore of the lake that looks so close. Easy right? Wrong! It is, as we stand there looking at the most obvious path down that we first hear the sound, quickly followed by the sight of hefty rocks as they cascade down onto what would be our route down.

Our guides Ignacio and Pablo quickly change their names to Caution and Prudence and after a short conference decide to split in attempt to discover a new and safer route down. Ignacio is to take what looks like being the shorter and we set off with Pablo on the flatter looking trek around a hillside and we agree to meet on the other side. Little did we know it at the time it was the last we were to see of Ignacio until we meet up with him at the lakeside.

What we thought was a hill, turned out to be a ridge and that offered no chance of circumnavigation. Both parties were now boldly going where no man had been before. Our own course followed the dried up river bed whose roughly strewn boulders made progress difficult. We climbed into the forest and the wet trees together with our need to push through them, made sure we were soaked inside minutes. Such is the fate of the explorer! At one point we found our way blocked by what would have been a waterfall! There was no way down so we had to climb back and navigate around the obstacles.

Eventually we found the Volcano’s main lava flow that stretched down to the lake and the last half-mile was done in double quick time. We found Ignacio waiting for us in the decimated former forest of trees whose tops just poked above the lava rock.

We had a few minutes to wait for the helicopter and Pablo chose that time to scratch out a picture of the map of South America. On this he sketched the position of the various tectonic plates which have caused this volcano and in fact the recent earthquakes here in Chile. “The two dominant forces collide at this very point of the continent here,” he said as he planted a stick into the sand. We observed that was exactly where we were now stood and this was confirmed by Ignacio who neatly stepped to the other side of the map in the sand and said, “Its safer on this side, come over to Brazil.”

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

In Chile Paddling Kayaks up the River Petrohu

In Chile Paddling Kayaks up the River Petrohu

The superyacht Atmosphere is loaded with toys and fun facilities

We have chosen to go kayaking today and given that we have never done that before that is quite daring of us. Our confidence bolstered by the fact that both Pablo and Ignacio say it is easy and that they will be there to help we decide to give it a try. 6 miles later our arm muscles are not so sure it was a good idea but we feel righteous having burned off just a few of the extra calories we took on board eating a delicious lunch.

When we returned we were able to sample other facilities the superyacht has to offer. Up on the sun deck are three hydro-thalassic spa pools two of which are filled with heated seawater and the third with hot fresh water. We soaked in the bubbling water bringing life back to our tired limbs and then absconded into the sauna followed by a powerful shower.

The fishermen returned with tales of mixed fortune that mostly revolved around that the fish got lucky even if the humans did not.

With the evening light drawing to a close and the setting sun illuminating the snow caped mountains, Atmosphere weighed anchor at around 8.30 in the evening and began to motor back down the Reloncavi Esturay. We have a 12 hour voyage of around 140 miles to make over night that should see us at anchor off Auchemo in the morning.

Atmosphere is available for charter through Robert Shepherd at Edmiston

Every Super Yacht Should Have its Own Helicopters

Atmosphere with one of her helicopters on board

The two bright red Bell 407 helicopters carried aboard the superyacht Atmosphere each carries six passengers and a pilot, which means, with nine guests on board, we have to decide what each of us would like to do. The problem is, we are spoiled for choice as to what to do. The wilderness of Chile is beckoning and the helicopter is there for our complete disposal. Sally, Brent, Bruce, Benny, Alex and Patrick are all keen fly fishermen and the lure of the brown trout is just too much for them to turn down the opportunity to catch it. They split into three groups and each with its own local expert guide and set off for Rio Negro. After two helicopter trips to drop them off with all their fishing gear, it is our turn, and Francisco our helicopter pilot, gives us our safety briefing.

We are to fly off for a trekking expedition through the forest that traces the trails created by Jesuit priests years ago when they came from Spain to covert the local population to Catholicism. The trail leads through thick woodland, along fast running rivers to a point beside Lake Cayutue. Our two guides, Pablo and Ignacio are a mine of wonderful information on eco tourism and on the way they point out Parrots and Chucao, a small tubby little bird with a distinctive call. We see wild fuscia, the plant from where all domestic varieties originate. We are shown Coicopihue trees with their orange coloured trunks and learn how it is, that the white blossoms of the Ulmo trees, in bloom now, make such deliciously tasting honey.

Despite the fact that we had been wafted into this wilderness from the skies, we suddenly come face to face with a local family on travelling on horse back using the same trail to move from their home in the hills to Relonca, the nearest town to deliver their son to the point were he can catch a boat to school. This is a journey they make every Sunday to ensure he gets to school in time for its start each Monday.

After an exhilarating hike of some three hours, we come to a clearing beside the lake and with perfect timing, Fernando swoops in from sky to pluck us out of the wilds and transport us swiftly back to Atmosphere where we enjoy a splendid lunch at which Victor our Captain joins us.

The fishermen are making a day of it and eat lunch where they are. With a half a day left for us to fill we opt to take out the yachts kayaks accompanied by our ever helpful crew who are all chosen for their local knowledge of the flora and fauna and are able to act as expert guides.

Atmosphere is available for Charter through Edmiston.

The Super Yacht Atmosphere

At Santiago Airport in the Tent on my iPhone

Joining a superyacht in Puerto Montt via Santiago, Chile

Joining Nomads of the Seas’ superyacht Atmosphere in Chile entails a long journey by air from the UK, in fact we were travelling more than 24 hours. In the week leading up to our great adventure the trip was on, then off and finally on again. The problem was the awful earthquake that struck the country and left devastation in its wake and Santiago Airport closed for a few days.

It took a total of three flights, starting first with an evening flight from London Heathrow to Madrid with the Spanish carrier Iberia then the longest part of the journey, Madrid to Santiago and finally the short hop south to Puerto Montt.

The best thing about the South American airline LAN? Undoubtedly the power supply in every seat even in the very back of the plane on their Airbus 340. In the front part of the plane a thirteen hour overnight journey from Madrid to Santiago is a pleasant experience. Sadly we were in the back where endurance is the name of the game, but the stewardesses were pleasant, the seats were reasonable, the leg room was definitely better than average and even the tiny baby in the seat beside us was remarkable quiet. Our South American saga was off to a good start.

Arriving in Santiago we expected to find an airline terminal flattened a la Charles de Gaulle because we heard the airport had been re-housed inside tented marquees. In fact from the outside, the terminal building looks untouched. Inside apparently it is another story, but we never found out, because we were shuttled in and out of tents as we made our way through customs, immigration and then onto domestic departures.

We were met at the airport by our guide Daniel who drove us to the Marina where Atmosphere is berthed. There, in a especially built guest house, we were entertained by local musicians while we ate a much needed splendid late lunch.

Our trip aboard this very special yacht is being organised by Edmiston who have set up a special division to handle explorer yachts that are available for exclusive charter.

What will this very special yacht and her expert crew have in store for us and the other six passengers aboard? We do not know. Save to say we are excited and hope to allow you to share in that adventure over coming days. Do not expect a posting every day, we are sailing into the wilderness! Catch us if you can!