Go Faster around the British Virgin Islands

The British Virgin Islands seen from Peter Island

War Horse is a super speedy charter yacht based in the BVI

One of the more unusual ways of seeing the British Virgin Islands is from the cockpit of one of the fastest charter yachts to be based in the area.

She carries the name War Horse and has over of 950hp of power supplied by three giant Yanmar motors, which give this 14 metre Kevlar hull superboat a top speed of over 44 knots.

Available for island tours, offering the chance of seeing 40 islands in a day, she can also be hired for fishing trips or even, for those who hate to hang about, Airport Transfers.

When fishing she can take up to ten guests searching for Marlin, Tuna and Dorado from atop the 8 metre high tuna tower. When chartered by those seeking to go kite surfing she can get form Gorda Sound where she is based at the Bitter End Yacht Club in under an hour.

Gorda Sound is a Super Yacht Spotters Paradise

Super Yachts in Gorda Sound

The BVI attracts superyachts to action packed anchorage

Anyone who wants to capture photographs of super yachts would do well to blow the dust off the Nikon and hang out at the Bitter End Yacht Club or Biras Creek Resorts both of which front on to the Gorda (sometimes called North) Sound.

Today dominating the skyline is the 119 metre Blohm & Voss superyacht A and in close attendance are, among others: Amnesia, Big Aron, Dream, Hilarium, Never Enough, My Little Violet, Harle, Parsival III, Lady Georgina, Odessa, Tigre d’Or and Resolute.

This time next year there could well be more superyachts here the sound with news that the North Sound Yacht Club has got the go ahead from the Government to proceed with their plans to create a marina offering 38 slips for mega-yachts from 100-350 feet, surrounded by a quaint village complete with upscale retail boutiques, fine dining and private villas. Club membership will also include membership to the Oil Nut Bay Club and use of the Biras Creek Resort facilities.

The numbers of Superyacht using Gorda Sound has grown significantly and steadily over the past 12 years, and finding berths in the area designed to meet the unique requirements of these vessels is extremely difficult, particularly in the BVI where very few facilities currently exist.

The Bitter End Yacht Club is currently the only facility able to take very large yachts on the dock and has in recent months accommodated the 70 metre Martha Ann that was built in 2008 by the Lurssen shipyard

Resorting to the Bitter End Yacht Club

The Bitter End Yacht Club and one of their Hobbie Cats

We leave Aerie and Arrive at Virgin Gorda’s Top Sailing Resort

It is always sad to leave a yacht and especially so when the crew have made us so very welcome.

Greeting us on the dock as we disembarked from Aerie was MaryJo Ryan, Resort Manager for the Bitter End Yacht Club Resort who showed us to our beachfront villa, one of the resorts newly refurbished properties.

We get a sense of feeling as we have come back home so relaxed is the atmosphere here. Much of the BEYC is how remember it, but much of it has been improved since Sandra Grisham-Clothier arrived here from the Peter Island resort to take over as Chief Operating Officer here. She has built upon the resorts strengths, cut away the weak spots and what is left is a vibrant fun resort that is the perfect venue for any family keen to enjoy themselves on the water.

The resort has an abundance of yachts that guests can use starting with sailboards and working up through optimists, hobbie-cats, lasers and even a fleet of keel sailing boats. Motorboat enthusiasts are looked after with a fleet of self drive Boston Whalers and Bradley 22’s which are 6.7 metre long power boats with large powerful outboards and handy bimini covers to give plenty of shade.

In fact it is a wonder to us why more sailing clubs, based in the colder climes, do not set up sail-in-the sun programmes and come down in groups to enjoy the boats at the resort allowing the BEYC to set up organise and even run regattas for them.

We Eat Well Cruising on Superyachts

A plate full of local Lobster aboard Tenacious

Did we mention the food?

There can be no doubt that what distinguishes one great charter yacht from another is the standard of the food served onboard.

It is quite possible to charter a superyacht with every amenity and water toy known to man on board but if the food served by the chef is not up to scratch, the charter seems to fall flat no matter how hard the other crew try to save the day.

So much responsibility lies on the shoulders of the chef it seems hardly fair on them but over the past few days we have had the very great privilege of eating the finest of foods at the tables aboard the charter yachts we have been sailing aboard.

Take for example, the lobster supper served on the foredeck of the sailing yacht Tenacious complete with corn dribbling in a spicy ginger and coriander butter served with crunchy potato wedges. Gloriously simple food cooked using the finest ingredients by chefs working in small galleys whose task it is to feed hungry charter guests. It is they who are the true superstars of superyacht charter. Other memorable meals aboard the sailing yacht included Grilled Wahoo steaks served on lemon pasta and a rack of lamb served on acorn squash and sweet potato puree. Quite delicious, this was followed by the most mouth watering Caramel Pear Tart topped with boat made vanilla ice cream.

The food on Aerie was equally good but created in a completely different style by the hugely talented Tracy Ireland a Canadian chef with over 20 years of professional cooking experience on yachts. Recently qualified Chef de Cuisine, Pro-Chef Level II from the Culinary Institute of America and the Culinary Federation, Tracy finds super yachting the perfect complement t her health oriented spa cuisine. She gave our taste buds a real kicking which started the moment we tasted her Bouillabaisse and the Pissaladière Niçoise, a caramelised onion tart which was topped with olives and anchovies. Boy was it good! Tracy also served us lamb but hers was cooked inside a herb and mustard crust and was perfectly pink inside, just the way we like it. She followed that masterpiece with caramelised pineapple sautéed in rum topped with vanilla ice cream, quite delicious.

Many chefs offer to cook Eggs Benedict for breakfast and generally we refuse, simply too many calories for little reward but boy, are we glad we took up the offer for breakfast on board this yacht! Tracy has given her sauce a mouth watering twist, other than that I am keeping quiet on the subject. You will have to charter the yacht to taste her secret.

Lunch that day included freshly baked Challah bread with a Turkey Cob Salad followed by sumptuous oatmeal cookies baked by Charlotte, the yachts stewardess.

Dinner was Caribbean Lobster served out of the shell on a carrot emulsion with roasted asparagus not only was the plate a picture to look at but the taste was devine.

Both Aerie and Tenacious are avail for charter in the British Virgin Islands through Fraser Yachts

Goodbye Tenacious, Welcome aboard Aerie

Motoryacht Aerie and sailing yacht Tenacious at anchor together from Marina Cay

We leave a super sailing yacht and join a super powerboat

Smartly dressed in their white uniforms captain Keith Talasek and his happy crew of five stood on the swim platform of the motor yacht Aerie to welcome us aboard.

We left the sailing yacht Tenacious to board the power yacht that is to be our home for the next few days as we continue to enjoy the waters and the islands of the British Virgin Islands. Cold towels are offered and accepted, a freshly made mango smoothie is pressed into our willing hands and we are immediately made to feel welcome.

Aerie charters through Fraser Yachts for $75,000 on AYCA terms.

The yacht built by Delta in 2001 has been given a facelift in 2009 and is in excellent shape. To take your own personal virtual tour click here.

Designed by J Q Barnett, her interior is a fascinating mix of art and function and every turn is pleasing to the eye.

Finished in soft earth tones with highlights of ocean colours her designers have made good use of stone in her make up.

Curves and angles distinguish the passenger accommodations, which have room for eight guests in comfort. Staterooms are illuminated by sculptured cast glass portlights that pass natural light through origami shoji screens to great effect.

And yes we are in the master stateroom, which has a stunning super large double bed and two bathrooms. Mine (of course I have the bigger one) has a huge bathtub and even a high definition TV that can be viewed while I laze in a bath of bubbles. Trust me it did not take long for me to try that one out!

Michael has a powerful man sized shower in his bathroom.

Leaving Marina Cay, the tiny island made famous by the book and the subsequent movie starring Sydney Poitier and John Cassavetes we moved first to Cooper Island and then onto Deadmans Bay.

There we went snorkelling, the water is calm, the wind slight and on the surface turtles bask in the sunshine while on the beach tourists from colder climbs roast to a golden tan. I can not wait to go diving tomorrow with Dan, the first mate who has thousands of dives under his weight belt.

Super Yacht Tenacious Goes Bang

Captain Duncan Hipkin fires the cannon

Old Naval Traditions Kept Alive at Sundown

Tinfoil, gunpowder and ingenuity goes into making the charge for a bronze cannon that is fired every night aboard the superyacht Tenacious as the sun goes down.

Each day Craig Rehaume the engineer aboard the sailing yacht makes a fresh charge that is loaded into the cannon mounted onto the leeward side of the yacht.

Then as the sun slowly sets below the horizon Captain Duncan Hipkin lights the fuse and deckhand Will Morris stands by to lower the ensign as the cannon lets out its mighty roar.

That’s the signal for stewardess Kristen Rust to serve her Mojitos or indeed any other cocktail a charter guest would care to order.

It is a Navy tradition that continues aboard Tenacious brought about by the owners passion for all things that go bang and as one who has been on the receiving end of the Mojito I think it is a very good tradition indeed.

All this on top a stonking sail to windward up the Francis Drake Passage in the BVI which started in Deadmans bay off Peter Island and finished in Long Bay off Virgin Gorda. On the way Tenacious stopped at the Baths, a really scenic, if somewhat touristy spot. There we had a splendid lunch before sailing onto Virgin Gorda where we went diving again just as night fell.

Dinner on deck was lobster washed down with fine Sancerre. There is no doubt that chartering aboard Tenacious through Fraser Yachts is a very classy act and sailing in the British Virgin Islands the perfect location in which to sample it.

Read all about our adventures in a future edition of SuperYacht World magazine.

Goodbye Panache, Hello RMS Rhone and Hello Tenacious

Photographing Tenacious from her tender

Hopping from one Superyacht to another in the BVI

Little Harbour an anchorage on Peter Island in the British Virgin Islands was the location chosen by the Captains of Panache and Tenacious as the ideal spot for us to transfer us from one yacht to another.

Before that however, I needed to visit an old friend lying underwater off the neighbouring island of Salt Island. The wreck of the Royal Mail Steamer (RMS) Rhone lies in two parts having been destroyed in a hurricane that swept through the islands in October of 1887. The deeper part lies in 25 metres and is a splendid dive for the moderately experienced diver. It was used as the backdrop to the movie "The Deep", starring Nick Nolte and Jacqueline Bissett.

The dive boat belonging to Blue Water Divers collected me and transported me to the site for a two tank dive. The deeper bow section first and the stern section complete with ships boilers and massive propellers as our second dive.

During the dive I was lucky enough to see turtles, lobsters, grouper, large yellowtail snapper and an assortment of other fish living in the wreck.

While I was diving, Michael was affecting a seamless transfer from one boat to another. It is always sad to leave a boat and bid farewell to a crew who have looked after us so well but our welcome aboard Tenacious was nothing short of delightful.

Captain Duncan Hipkin and his crew of four are a young and enthusiastic team whose sole desire seems to revolve around the wishes of the charter guest and making them as happy as anyone can be here in Paradise.

Tenacious is beautiful and was built to the designs of Ted Hood and Andrew Winch, talk about pedigree! She is a sloop 35 metres overall and charters through Fraser Yachts for $60,000 per week.

The yachts four staterooms each have flat screen TV, DVD player and Direct TV, intercom and phone service. 
The
 very comfortable Master Stateroom aft in which we are staying has a King bed, private access to aft deck, two heads – one with shower and one with bath each finished with a beautiful white marble tile and gold accents.

On deck casual cushioned seating with a generous awning transforms for alfresco dining around a portable table for eight guests. The covered cockpit where we ate our lunch has seating for 8 at 2 tables. These convert from coffee tables to dining tables.

Forward of the cockpit in the raised pilothouse is the spacious full width salon with cocktail tables, casual upholstered chairs a full entertainment system and a concealed helm station. The area is filled with natural light from the large windows, which offer us an 180^o view.

A concealed day head is forward of the salon near the winding stairway leading to the den and the dining room. 

The den to starboard provides a quiet area where we can relax on the soft leather sofa and read, watch TV and play games or work on our computers.

The dining room on the port side is accessed through the French doors leading from the den or from the main entrance off the spiral staircase. Soft lighting, a leather bench along the wall and cushioned chairs provide a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.

Super Yachts, Villas and Spas on Peter Island

Falcon's Nest, the perfect place to stay ashore

Lifestyle and Wellness with all the style of a Superyacht

When it comes to comparing superyachts and luxury island resorts they have a lot in common. Never it seems is this more true than here in the British Virgin Islands where we have been invited to visit some of the more up market resort hotels.

Today we left Panache tucked away inside the pretty Little Harbour Anchorage after breakfast and headed off to the Peter Island Resort.

There we were greeted by the resorts general manager and whisked away by wonderfully cheerful staff for a tour of the property. Highlight of this was a visit to two of the most spectacular villas high up on the islands hills each with the most spectacular of views.

Crow’s Nest is a four bedroom villa that has a master stateroom very much along the lines of a superyacht and then three further double bedrooms. A swimming pool and a shallow pool for the children are adjacent and just for the use of guests staying inside the villa.

Falcon’s Nest is even more spectacular with its own infinity pool, water-fall, plunge pool and open air hot tub. This magnificent villa has six glorious bedrooms and comes with its own private chef, valet, chauffeured vehicle and housekeeper. At $18,500 a night for the entire villa and supporting entourage it pays to have thought about who among your nearest and dearest friends you would care to bring along with you.

Should those same friends prove to be a distraction then head over to the spa or call the well trained staff to your villa and choose from one of their extensive list of well-being treatments. If I can be so bold as to make a recommendation then I suggest you opt for the Tropical Lime and Ginger Buff. For this they combine local salt island salt with fresh lime, juniper, ginger and lemon grass which they scrub onto your skin. Washed off with a Swiss full body shower you are then anointed with an almond oil moisturiser. My skin has never felt so good and Michael says I taste pretty good too!

Snorkelling from a Superyacht

Just Below the Surface

One of the greatest joys of super yacht sailing in warm waters is the ability to jump over the side of a superyacht, sink below the surface and then with nothing more than a snorkel, mask and a pair of fins watch in awe as a whole new world unfolds.

The British Virgin Islands offers crystal, clear, warm waters at swimming temperatures the whole year round. Swimming from the super yacht Panache we have snorkelled at: The Caves, The Indians and in Benures Bay

All of which are close by Norman island in the western end of the chain.

Fish here in the protected waters of a national park are protected and as a result wonderfully numerous by comparison to other areas of the Caribbean. They swim in and out of corals and rock formations from which sway purple coloured sea fans and tufts of green sea grass.

Brave little black Durgon dart about protecting their territories precious because of the eggs lying there waiting to be hatched. Larger Parrot fish chomp away at coral, while Sergeant Majors, resplendent in their yellow and black striped uniform waft in and out of view. Electric Blue Tangs add to the kaleidoscope of underwater colour in the company of: Cromies, Squirrel Fish, Goat Fish, Damsel Fish, Butterfly Fish and Angel Fish.

Of the larger fish we have seen are in these waters are: Grouper, Filefish and even the occasional Barracuda whose snarling grin and evil looking teeth give him the menacing look he hardly deserves.

For me the highlights so far this trip has been the sighting of a small stingray enjoying the attention of the tiny fish that operate the cleaning stations and a turtle disturbed from eating sea grass by the noise my bracelets made as I duck-dived down deep. Once he realised I meant no harm he stopped at what he thought was a safe distance and we each contemplated the other until the weaker lunged of us had to head for the surface.

We are enjoying the delights of sailing aboard the motor yacht Panache, being spoiled rotten by her ever attentive crew who watch over us while we swim and stand by with white fluffy towels for the moment we step out of the water.

Motor Cruising with real Panache

Captain Gareth at the wheel in the Sir Francis Drake Channel

Sailing in Style through the BVI

We are sailing aboard the 26 metre motoryacht Panache, pampered by a crew of four we dropped anchor last night off Jost Van Dyke, one in a string of fabulous islands that make up the chain of British Virgin Islands.

The islands are a yachtsman’s paradise, short sheltered passages between islands, quite anchorages, unused by others, clear blue sky, sumptuous sunshine and warm Caribbean seas all combine to make this one of natures little secrets and a great place to sail.

They become even more enjoyable when as a guest on board you have an attentive crew to look after you acting as tour guides and keeping you in a style that many of us would wish could last forever.

Our great crew served a BBQ steak dinner last night which we ate al fresco on the sun deck. This morning breakfast of fresh fruit set us up for the start of the day, which began with a hike to the bubbly pools.

We began at Foxy’s Taboo, a bar right down on the shoreline in Diamond Cay. An easy walk along the beach, past the mangrove trees and through a copse of Machineel brought us to a rock U shaped pool on the islands north coast. Here, when the conditions are right the Atlantic swell crashes through the small rock gap bubbling and frothing into a creamy lather of frenzied seawater.

Up anchor and away we go our powerful wake carving a white trail across the deep blue water, we are bound for Norman Island and an anchorage called the Bight.

Often referred to as Treasure Island, Norman Island was mentioned in a letter written in 1750 as being the location of treasure buried after being taken from the Spanish Galleon Nuestra Señora

From this tranquil spot it is a short hop in the tender to see the Indians a small outcrop of rocks famous as a beginners dive site and a wonderful spot for snorkelling. Equally wonderful are the caves on Norman Island where is easy to swim inside and see the myriad of fish that make them their home.

Fancy a drink? Try the Willy T a 28 metre replica of a topsail schooner and now a floating bar and restaurant or wander ashore to the top of a sandy bay and sup a rum punch at Pirates Bight

We are sailing aboard Panache and you can do so as well for around US$29,000 a week. There is room for eight on board and at US$3625 a head all inclusive that’s vacation value that is hard to match.

British Virgin Islands - Natures Little Superyacht Secrets

View from our gorgeous room at the Mariner Inn

British Virgin Islands Set to Shake up the Super Yacht Sailing Experience

The British Virgin Islands or as sailors the world over call them, The BVI are often referred to as Natures Little Secrets. Now as the island shipping registry becomes a grown up achieving the high accolade of category one status things are set to change.

As travel journalists whose speciality is writing about superyachts we are here on location to write a series of in depth articles for magazines published by the IPC group. Catch our stories here as we tour the islands aboard the superyachts Panache, Tenacious and Aerie.

We will visit isolated anchorages, cruising hotspots and top resort hotels. Get the low down on new and existing superyacht marinas and join us as we find fun in the sun aboard some of the best crewed charter yachts in the area